16 Comments

  1. Do you take this thing on the highway? If so what is your cruise rpm? I've always heard that if your stall speed is higher than your cruise rpm you're burning up the transmission because it isn't fully "locked" due to the difference in rpm. I don't know if that's true or not.

  2. Great video man! found this very informative since maybe one day I too could build my own muscle car, but for now theres only enough space for just my grocery getter! Love the content! Keep it coming, Im exited to see what happens once the drag strips open back up!

  3. I drove my 75 duster 97 miles one way with a 3500 stall and 4:56 gears posi unit in the late 90’s took 60 gallons of fuel for round trip about two hundred dollars then it has a ladder bar with no floaters for the rear end just like a top fuel car the wedges in the rear springs had it set at five degrees down at the yoke it was a blast still have everything but 3:23 gears now single spin

  4. I ran a 71 Duster 340 with a 3500 Turbo Action converter and manual valve body, with 4.30 gears on the street as a daily driver for a couple of years in the mid-90's. Can you run something like that on the street, sure… but if you take it on the highway you will be doing 4,000 RPM's just to keep up with traffic, and if you have power steering, as I did, it would boil out the fluid on longer highway trips. My car even had the factory power steering cooler, made no difference, the PS fluid would boil on longer highway trips and puke all over the place. A manual steering box would fix that issue. I had a love hate relationship with the high stall converter, on the one hand it sucked how much it slipped at low speeds, on the other hand it was great when you punched it as the engine would immediately scream and the car would go sideways. In the early 90's I also ran a welded differential on a 300ZX turbo street race car I had, which is basically the same as running a spool. In all honesty it never bothered me much, it would chirp the tires on tight turns, but I never saw any damage to the tires because of it. To me a spool or a welded diff is really the least bothersome of all these things, the welded diff never bothered me much.

  5. No, that set-up is not for the street. Just because you can, doesn't mean you should. Street cars should have a converter stall speed based on the beginning of the torque curve; race application should be at or near peak torque curve. Also, spools are strictly for drag racing…if you have a spool and mistakenly jump on it with other than your tires and your car pointed straight, you will likely lose control of the car. And as far as rear end gear ratio, that really depends on the diameter of your rear tires, and of course your application (what you plan to use the car for). Just my take.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

© 2024 Grudge Races - GrudgeRaces.Com - WordPress Theme by WPEnjoy