A old timers trick to change valve springs without a air compressor or even if you have one and don't want to have a issue is to roll the motor over until its at bdc then stuff sash cord or some other soft line in the spark plug hole. Turn the motor gently by hand until it locks up and r&r the spring. Don't forget to leave the tail hanging out so you can remove the line.
Manifold hat roughly 10"x 24" = 240 " x 50psi = 12,000 psi trying to lift it before the hick-up . Burst panel roughly 2" x2" = 4" x 50 psi = 200psi before hick-up .
If valve guide clearance was correct, why would it grab the valve stems when it cools off? What's the future fix? Tapering the guide bore at the bottom?
Longer screw’s (bolts)! Holds the boost, doesn’t need to burst the plate the top intake blew off the before the burst plate. Glad to hear they made it. Version “x” longer intake blots (screw’s)! Nice build…. Version “XI” valve seats! Great build Steve live and learn.
I think you are on the right track re the surface area on the intake manifold – that is a very large area! I would suggest going up a bolt size in future builds if possible or tap them with helicoils to give a higher thread strength if the threads are stripping out. With all the right data I would do all the maths for you to validate it all, pretty much surface area x pressure and then compare to thread strengths and bolt strengths. Although there could also be issues like bolts bending due to flex under that pressure too – that would take them out very quickly.
The valve guides – any chance they cooled unevenly and warped? so the hole wasn't straight anymore or the hole went oval? That would cause the issues you describe.
Regarding that manifold, I reckon it's most likely the bolts were under, over or unevenly torqued. All together they're probably well over spec for the job but if they're uneven, once a couple start to pull it puts more stress on the others so they start coming out and then it's game over.
WOW, probably about 600 lbs spring pressure pulling on those valves… they wouldn't close…. Maybe No valve stem seals woul be better, extra lubrication in Guides…
Hi Steve cheers for the awesome videos and my mate taught me a good trick when changing valve springs with the head still on you can use the piston and some plastic piping or nylon rope put in through the spark plug hole into the bore to hold the valve up no fear of losing the valve
Were there any changes to the oiling system on Tom’s motor? When we went to dry sump oiling we had to open valve guide clearance because the suction of the dry sump was so efficient it left very little oil on the top end of the motor and we’d have exhaust valves hang up in the guide, even bent a few.
When you were describing the valve that fell into the cylinder, my thought was: turn the crankshaft and raise the piston just far enough to make sure the valve didn't fall any farther and then put some sort of a dowel rod, obviously smaller diameter than the valve guide, with something sticky on it and see if it could be pulled back up; but I never would have thought to use suction, especially not just sucking through a hose with your mouth… Freakin' awesome!
Awesome video Steve and thanks for all the love! That SMX powerplant is bad to the bone and is going to take us lots more places from here. Thank you for everything and keep doing what you do my friend… You watch next year everyone’s gonna be stocking, rubber hoses in their trailer for valve retrieval lol.
I have a friend with a 96 gts, that runs a double shot of nitrious. The way he cheats the cars computer for the nitrious system and timing modification is notorious for causing backfires. I am not sure what Neds doing as I haven't really looked at any of his stuff. But I can't say its the first time I have seen a viper backfire and blast the intake good. I haven't seen him a hot minute. Or i would find out more for you.
why did only one side of toms engine suddenly have the issue. was that bank running hotter?
Sounds to me like it blew straight back up out of the intake valves? Only way I see that back plate staying on.
Long live the most interesting content provider on YouTube…
A old timers trick to change valve springs without a air compressor or even if you have one and don't want to have a issue is to roll the motor over until its at bdc then stuff sash cord or some other soft line in the spark plug hole. Turn the motor gently by hand until it locks up and r&r the spring. Don't forget to leave the tail hanging out so you can remove the line.
Manifold hat roughly 10"x 24" = 240 " x 50psi = 12,000 psi trying to lift it before the hick-up . Burst panel roughly 2" x2" = 4" x 50 psi = 200psi before hick-up .
Always love the failure analysis videos. When things fail, generally we never get to know why it failed.
If valve guide clearance was correct, why would it grab the valve stems when it cools off? What's the future fix? Tapering the guide bore at the bottom?
Clarke.. A man of few words. And Mt. Dew.
Simply put, the burst panel is stronger than 26 1/4" bolts.
Wonder if the engine was beginning to overheat and that's why the valves got hung up
You should call Ned 'Honey'….. 😉
That valve trick is very smart but if a hooker can suck a golf ball through a garden hose then why wouldn't it work LOL
Longer screw’s (bolts)! Holds the boost, doesn’t need to
burst the plate the top intake blew off the before the burst plate. Glad to hear they made it. Version “x” longer intake blots (screw’s)! Nice build…. Version “XI” valve seats! Great build Steve live and learn.
I think you are on the right track re the surface area on the intake manifold – that is a very large area! I would suggest going up a bolt size in future builds if possible or tap them with helicoils to give a higher thread strength if the threads are stripping out. With all the right data I would do all the maths for you to validate it all, pretty much surface area x pressure and then compare to thread strengths and bolt strengths. Although there could also be issues like bolts bending due to flex under that pressure too – that would take them out very quickly.
The valve guides – any chance they cooled unevenly and warped? so the hole wasn't straight anymore or the hole went oval? That would cause the issues you describe.
Could it be the changes in fuel quality just asking
Regarding that manifold, I reckon it's most likely the bolts were under, over or unevenly torqued. All together they're probably well over spec for the job but if they're uneven, once a couple start to pull it puts more stress on the others so they start coming out and then it's game over.
Another sweet video. The sucking the valve story was the best!
Steve Morris is the kind of guy who tunes and fixes his own SMX with a garden hose, because.
WOW, probably about 600 lbs spring pressure pulling on those valves… they wouldn't close…. Maybe No valve stem seals woul be better, extra lubrication in Guides…
Hey Steve could the bolts on the intake have been alittle too short and over torqued therefore stretched making a weak point ?
you’ll need up ratchet strap that lid on for high boost
I'm thinking with the valve guide expanded from the heat, there could have been some carbon buildup on the stem in that area.
Hardest working/racing engine builder out there. Awesome to see it
Hi Steve cheers for the awesome videos and my mate taught me a good trick when changing valve springs with the head still on you can use the piston and some plastic piping or nylon rope put in through the spark plug hole into the bore to hold the valve up no fear of losing the valve
Were there any changes to the oiling system on Tom’s motor? When we went to dry sump oiling we had to open valve guide clearance because the suction of the dry sump was so efficient it left very little oil on the top end of the motor and we’d have exhaust valves hang up in the guide, even bent a few.
Okay people go ahead and laugh at me but the question I have is, do you guys still balance your tires for the track?
When you were describing the valve that fell into the cylinder, my thought was: turn the crankshaft and raise the piston just far enough to make sure the valve didn't fall any farther and then put some sort of a dowel rod, obviously smaller diameter than the valve guide, with something sticky on it and see if it could be pulled back up; but I never would have thought to use suction, especially not just sucking through a hose with your mouth… Freakin' awesome!
Awesome as always ..
You guys have to do something with your interviewed persons audio.
Really it is tough!
Awesome video Steve and thanks for all the love! That SMX powerplant is bad to the bone and is going to take us lots more places from here. Thank you for everything and keep doing what you do my friend… You watch next year everyone’s gonna be stocking, rubber hoses in their trailer for valve retrieval lol.
I say that makes up for all the shity things that happen very cool hey have a great day bud tell Clark good job glad he didn't have no problems
Most likely a detonation rather then an explosion. super interesting
I love how you treat others. No problem pointing out others when they do well and proud of them
I have a friend with a 96 gts, that runs a double shot of nitrious. The way he cheats the cars computer for the nitrious system and timing modification is notorious for causing backfires. I am not sure what Neds doing as I haven't really looked at any of his stuff. But I can't say its the first time I have seen a viper backfire and blast the intake good. I haven't seen him a hot minute. Or i would find out more for you.