16 Comments

  1. I don't know why the the guy has so many oil leaks on a big block, I don't… I do have a cometic rear main seal one piece for a two piece rear main deal block, won't leak, they are a job putting them on. You put the seal on the crank before you set it down in the block, O ring goes aroun d the seal to make it one piece seal for the two halfs AG… I use Felpro one piece seal for oil pan and works well!

  2. I also tap the front oil gallerys and install pipe plugs in it and becareful not to block off the oil gallery with the plug going to deep and block the oil gallery off. If it has a hydraulic lifter cam, I drill a .040" hole in both of the pipe plugs for both lifter gallerys to blead the air out of the oil gallerys when it is running… Its a must on a big block…

  3. I use the 6 qt. oil pan for a Corvette with a Z-28.windage tray. A drilled in the top of rod makes rod weaker, should be drilled on the bottom side of rod below piston pin at an angle. I have no problem putting spiralocks in without streching them out, just like they come AG.

  4. You have alot of money invested into parts there! Why are you not wanting to deck the block to dial in your quench? I wouldn't think the extra $150 to deck it would matter? You probably spent more on that oil pan than what the cost would be to deck the block? I'm sure it will be fine, quench is just somthing I think alot about with my engines. I think it's very important to take advantage of if your parts allow it.

  5. 24:10 you've got that backwards, the wider chamfer faces the crank fillet, and on small blocks that puts the bearing tangs facing the outboard side of the block. as the front of the piston faces you (as you stand in front of the block), drivers (odd) bank, front towards, tangs to the right, passengers, front towards you, tangs to the left.

  6. The comp Thumpr cams are awesome, I have one in my 355 with 10:1 CR and it pulled very hard through the mid range. But their short coming is the lift, I use 1.7 ratio rockers.

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