Steve, two quick questions: 1) how do I become a premium member and 2) can you tell me the brand and/or the dealer for your drag and drive trailer? I love the way the top pivots up at the front. By the way, you are the best? Michael Karels. Yup I am a subscriber and a merchandise buyer! Thank you!
This may sound strange, but what it you hooked up a dessicant filled filter box to the crankcase system operated by a small cpu fan that would circulate the evironment in the engine to stay dry over the temperature changes. Use a jump box or something to power it. Have it so you have the easy ability to hook it up to the valve covers , and cover your intake system. After your runs or drive, hook it up and let her eat. It's late, so forgive me if this sounds like a waste of time.
Use a cut pc of 12 gauge insulated copper wire bent to reach it through the spark plug hole while using the camera probe. Scrape it into that threaded portion. It will scrape & possibly fall off onto the piston surface. Then retrieve it with a magnetic wand or probe. It was a steel bolt.
This may be a dumb question, but why are these springs not plated to stop the rust? I would thing a black oxide would be just what you are looking for.
Steve your videos are GREAT. Just a thought on the hole with the screw stuck, how tuff are the rod bearings? Could the bearings have taken the hit without any damage?
I dropped a washer down to the oil pan and put magnets on the oil pan. Do you think it's down there moving around or stuck to the heavy magnet? So far I've been down the track a couple of times. No issues.
To get that screw out, rotate so it’s intake open exhaust closed (to stop it falling out the exhaust to the turbo), modify a long handled heavy duty pick to get under the side of it and flick it out, doesn’t look to be embedded too deep. Then tape some clear tubing to a vacuum and pop that down the port and vacuum it out/ grab it with the vacuum to lift it out. With all that cocking around, sometimes it’s just quicker to spend those hours pulling the head and repairing the damage. Good luck!
Tom needs to start using Rev X !!! After your tear downs with and without it I’m convinced it’s worth the cost compared to rebuilding the bottom end more often. Something my budget cannot afford.
Steve, you should send a sample of old oil from Bailey's engine for analysis. It's probably acidic due to the methanol and water. If the engine is left for a long time with dirty oil, it could be causing the corrosion on the springs and it may also explain the film on the bearings, which is probably a precipitate from a chemical reaction with the coating on the bearing.
That blacken material on the bearings is oil and or oil additive being burnished onto the bearing surface. To explain this you have to think about how a diesel works and how to make charcoal. The pressure on the oil between the crank and bearing is so high that the temperature of the oil or additive is so high that it begins to burn but in the absence of oxygen, it turns into basically charcoal. It ends up on the bearing surface because the bearing is stationary and softer than the crank. Usually this is because of an additive that burns at a lower temperature than the oil. You also usually see this in any engine with a very high cylinder pressure or too tight of clearances. I say the additive because not all oils will do this and if it was the oil itself then you would have viscosity break down and melted bearings. To get rid of this you either change oil brands and/or need more oil flow between the crank and bearing. When I see this I open my clearance up by 1/2 thou. to 1 thou.
Do the valve springs have enough coil bind to keep them out of the frequency where they break. I may not understand this right and it may not be a factor for the issue that you have had with springs. Dave at headgames explains it in a way that makes me think it could be a coil bind issue
Good video. I am amazed you're still fouling around with your own motor. Get into and get er done. My old teacher told me that you can always tell the best mechanic by the their cars always needs work. They fix everyone else's cars but their own. I got into street racing. I would drive my car like I stole it. I would only work on it when I had to. Knowing you've eaten a bolt. Spend a Sunday and pull it off. On the other side one hole has lower compression than the others. Do a leak down test and find out why and fix it. When you set another personal best you'll feel great. Cheering for you. It's been a few years since I've been in the shop. Are air tools phased out? Electric is easier but air has the torque.
You must have Diamond Pistons "magic phone number". I've called them several times and emailed them several times. Left messages several times and still haven't talked to them. So I called JE and they got me set-up.
You think it’s the line-to-line coating that is depositing on the bearings?
Fuking Awesome Brain you have ,Steve!
Steve, two quick questions: 1) how do I become a premium member and 2) can you tell me the brand and/or the dealer for your drag and drive trailer? I love the way the top pivots up at the front.
By the way, you are the best?
Michael Karels. Yup I am a subscriber and a merchandise buyer! Thank you!
This may sound strange, but what it you hooked up a dessicant filled filter box to the crankcase system operated by a small cpu fan that would circulate the evironment in the engine to stay dry over the temperature changes. Use a jump box or something to power it. Have it so you have the easy ability to hook it up to the valve covers , and cover your intake system. After your runs or drive, hook it up and let her eat.
It's late, so forgive me if this sounds like a waste of time.
Wonder if it's zink? 7:48
Maybe Tom is using some top secret go fast juice….lol.
Yes, that is a head dent. The other is the threaded part stuck in the head next to it. At least you found it though.
Thanks!
Use a cut pc of 12 gauge insulated copper wire bent to reach it through the spark plug hole while using the camera probe. Scrape it into that threaded portion. It will scrape & possibly fall off onto the piston surface. Then retrieve it with a magnetic wand or probe. It was a steel bolt.
need tool found it
Thanks!
Thanks!
May sound stupid but could you line coat the springs???
This may be a dumb question, but why are these springs not plated to stop the rust? I would thing a black oxide would be just what you are looking for.
Steve your videos are GREAT. Just a thought on the hole with the screw stuck, how tuff are the rod bearings? Could the bearings have taken the hit without any damage?
I dropped a washer down to the oil pan and put magnets on the oil pan. Do you think it's down there moving around or stuck to the heavy magnet? So far I've been down the track a couple of times. No issues.
Definitely looks like water stains!
To get that screw out, rotate so it’s intake open exhaust closed (to stop it falling out the exhaust to the turbo), modify a long handled heavy duty pick to get under the side of it and flick it out, doesn’t look to be embedded too deep. Then tape some clear tubing to a vacuum and pop that down the port and vacuum it out/ grab it with the vacuum to lift it out. With all that cocking around, sometimes it’s just quicker to spend those hours pulling the head and repairing the damage. Good luck!
God bless Steve and all around you man thanks for videos
Your knowledge is awesome. Love the content and how meticulous you are with your work. I guess that's what it takes to build a great product
The Cadillac HT4.1, 4.5, 4.9 engines have that style of rocker arm support, was a engine tech at Caddy dealer in 88-2008.
Coat your springs.
It seems like you could make up an fan/dehumidifier and connect it to the breather and let it run for a few hours to dry out the valvetrain.
Tom needs to start using Rev X !!! After your tear downs with and without it I’m convinced it’s worth the cost compared to rebuilding the bottom end more often. Something my budget cannot afford.
Nice, almost as fast as the turnaround in a NHRA Top Fuel pit stall.
He is only doing test passes not driving it. That why
Hey Steve help me understand why you turn crank to remove valve train?
Those borescope probes curve for her pleasure.
I love that snapon box
Steve, you should send a sample of old oil from Bailey's engine for analysis. It's probably acidic due to the methanol and water. If the engine is left for a long time with dirty oil, it could be causing the corrosion on the springs and it may also explain the film on the bearings, which is probably a precipitate from a chemical reaction with the coating on the bearing.
Wow as usual a greatvideo. I suspe t the problem on the bering is from the fuel.
Thank you for your knowledge and videos USA TRUMP
I’m glad you stay humble and you include “things” in your video when you’re trying to prove the crowd wrong.
You’re a good man
We All Love ya Steve , your shop your know how, your cars , just everything is OFF the HOOK !
Steve , you need to talk to my proctologist. He’s probably got his tool that can snag that out of there. LoL
That blacken material on the bearings is oil and or oil additive being burnished onto the bearing surface. To explain this you have to think about how a diesel works and how to make charcoal. The pressure on the oil between the crank and bearing is so high that the temperature of the oil or additive is so high that it begins to burn but in the absence of oxygen, it turns into basically charcoal. It ends up on the bearing surface because the bearing is stationary and softer than the crank. Usually this is because of an additive that burns at a lower temperature than the oil. You also usually see this in any engine with a very high cylinder pressure or too tight of clearances. I say the additive because not all oils will do this and if it was the oil itself then you would have viscosity break down and melted bearings. To get rid of this you either change oil brands and/or need more oil flow between the crank and bearing. When I see this I open my clearance up by 1/2 thou. to 1 thou.
Do they pay each time you refresh these engines or is that part of the Initial price of the engine.
Do the valve springs have enough coil bind to keep them out of the frequency where they break. I may not understand this right and it may not be a factor for the issue that you have had with springs. Dave at headgames explains it in a way that makes me think it could be a coil bind issue
Good video. I am amazed you're still fouling around with your own motor. Get into and get er done. My old teacher told me that you can always tell the best mechanic by the their cars always needs work. They fix everyone else's cars but their own. I got into street racing. I would drive my car like I stole it. I would only work on it when I had to. Knowing you've eaten a bolt. Spend a Sunday and pull it off. On the other side one hole has lower compression than the others. Do a leak down test and find out why and fix it. When you set another personal best you'll feel great. Cheering for you.
It's been a few years since I've been in the shop. Are air tools phased out? Electric is easier but air has the torque.
You must have Diamond Pistons "magic phone number". I've called them several times and emailed them several times. Left messages several times and still haven't talked to them. So I called JE and they got me set-up.
How do valve springs rust when it’s oil coated