The crush collar or sleeve is a part common to the vast majority of production rear (and front) Differentials. The manufacturers use them to expedite the assembly process, but under even normal use, they eventually lose their ability to hold tension against the pinion bearings and cause all sorts of noises and damage
It’s even worse in a high performance environment.
Here’s everything you need to know about dealing with these things as well as a simple hack to save yours and how to go about ridding yourself of them completely.
HATS!:
MERCHANDISE:
Get Your UTG T-Shirts Here:
Get Your UTG Stickers Here:
OUR STORE:
*SOCIAL MEDIA:
Facebook:
source
man, that car in the back looks tuff
When crushing these crush sleeves the way I do it on every diff is turn the pinion with a in pound torque wrench and tighten the nut until you have 20in lbs of rolling resistance or 30 for new bearings
While you were doing this video I was thinking that you could take the old crush collar, measure it precisely with a set of calipers or a micrometer, then duplicate that length in a fabricated spacer on the lathe, then re-install with a few ugga duggas on the impact. No need to mess around with pre-load then, because it was already set the last time you put it together, and that old crush collar is the exact right length to get it there.
Get a solid spacer. Used solid spacers in my front D44 reverse high pinyon, and one in my Strange/Ford 9” rear. Buy duplicate bearings for everything, one set make “set up” bearings by honing to slip fit, and go with a solid spacer with assorted shims. The only way to set up gears
Wow, that's huge. On the manufacturer diffs I worked on had rather small ones. And luckily I never had an issue. Luckily they rarely needed rebuilding or replacements.
My dad once had a 1960 Ford 4×4 pickup, and the rear end always had a howling noise and the old man could never figure it out and eventually he traded it for a new pickup (1971 Ford). I am guessing this was the cause, because I don't think he had any knowledge of this and never checked it. And I bet there are a lot of people who have no idea about this. Another one of those simple basic things, but overlooked way too often.
You can also stake the nut with the chisel or punch
What a guy. You're a great teacher! Thank you.
Hey Tony . can't say enoug for your willingness to share your knowlege in mechanics . It's very appreiciated up here in Troudou land .Thankyou!
That's exactly what's happening to my axle. I changed the pinion oil seal as it was leaking, but frankly i never knew about the crush collar. i just tightened the pinion nut back. No more leaks but … but … there's now noise as exactly described by Tony. Acceleration nice, deceleration, there's like a tick tick tick sound. Goes away as you lightly touch the throttle, but comes back when you let the throttle off. I'm not sure if this diff has such a collar. It's an Australian Salisbury 10-bolt diff with no C-Clip holding the axle shafts in the centre.
Can someone tell me how would one check for such a collar?
Typically with Chrysler stuff your looking pttr pinion torque to rotation the spec is how many inch pounds of torque it takes to rotate the pinion gear that lets you know what your bearin g preload actually is. There's a whole worksheet to use when rebuilding one .it's start with a dttr measurement .that's differential torque to ratation. With some math it takes you through the whole process of measurement to shim selection to get the perfect final assembly .once you learn this method it works every time. Although you are using the factory setup tools wichmostguysdont have access to unless they buy them from miller
Love ya always uncle!
And reusing a pinion nut is a no no even with locktite.
Ive never had an issue running the pinion nut from start to preload . Large cresent on the yoke wedged against something and held and whatever vintage snap on impact I had at the time… I have always set them all to about 1- 2 inch pounds rotating resistence with the ring gear absent the preload is specific to the bearing , not the car or manufacturer…..The only time ive had to eliminate them was on stick cars getting pounded in the gate. Thats everything from Dana 80s down to 7.5" fords…. The danas come loose on the regular and will take a little bump to set them back and roll again.
I'm not sure that we can blame the crush collar setup for this problem. I've never had any experience with the issue but it seems to me that unless the extra clearance can be 100% attributed to the collar crushing more than it was when first fitted then we need to look at the situation differently.
Is the main problem that loosening the nut means that you have replace the crush collar?
Does a shimmed setup with a solid part replacing the crush collar last appreciably longer before the same sort of problems occur?
What a timely vidja! I'm about to start on my first diff rebuild this weekend. This context really helps! One quick question , I've always hear that you shouldn't have to reshim if you just swap bearing on the same ring/pinion gears. This true? I"m really hoping this is the case since mine uses custom c-clips as shims and the dealer doesn't sell them anymore (WK jeep, front diff, mercedes 200mm). I'll obviously mark and verify but I'm concerned that the parts aren't even available if things don't line up.
The old timer who taught me said to mark pinion nut, usually with a straight line across the nut. That way you can see if the nut has backed off. It was a valuable addition.
Great video.
thanks for the knowledge Uncle Tony! i didn't even know about this particular problem but i do now. I'm a fan of driving old cars so ill be on the lookout for "the noise"
Doin carrier bearings in my 12 bolt corp.
Great info and timely. Top notch!