New Wheelie Control, New Wheels and Vacuum Pump Mounting / Lot's to get finished.



More odds and ends to do. Changing the tongue jack out on the trailer, figuring out where to mount the vacuum pump, new wheels and looking at a wheelie control sensor from Mad Racing. Lots of stuff to finish before next weekend when we hit the track again.

——————————————————————————————————————————

The Drag Racer’s Wife sub to her channel:

Hang out with me live every Wednesday night for Tech Talk! Ask questions and share your setups. Join here:

Thomas Racing Service: Jeff Thomas No Prep Struts
The Brake Man:
Black Sheep Industries: Discount code: TurboJohn10
Tin Soldiers Race Cars:
Check out the Jegs Pit Mat here:
Forced Inductions:
Cam Specialist, turbo needs:
Mod Series Shocks:
Torque Converters:

source

30 Comments

  1. One question. You buy all this nice stuff and squeak buy on the oil. Your engine is at race car caliber, but you use Trucker Bob oil. The vacuum pump should remove a large amount of moisture from the oil, at least it did on mine. what I want to know is how are you going to seal the valve cover vents. those need seal up or you'll never produce vaccum. My engine produced 15.6 inch vaccume without a relief in the v/cover. Keep killing it.

  2. John, the ride height sensor doesn’t need to point at the ground. On my car i have it on the upper control arm, pointing up and it actually it is more consistent compared to pointing at the ground.
    Just another option to consider.

  3. Who do you use for beadlocks?? I contacted Mc Fab and they told me they couldn't do double beadlocks on my Weld Pro Stars. Something about the way the back bead is made?? They said they could beadlock the front and knurl the back but no double locks? Let me know what you find out please because I'd love to get mine done. Thanks!!

  4. Put a cable from your starter to your rear bumper and use one of those heavy duty plugs and you won't need a battery for the trailer jack. Works great I have one on my truck plus you can get jumper cables for it or it will power a winch no problem

  5. Putting in the work again, as am I currently. "Races are won and lost in the shop" as J. Kovalak says!

    The idea that someone had below (on ride height sensor from lower control arm to body above), may just be a lot more accurate over time, so if your ride height and front shock rates change due to changes in settings can easily be measured, and track surface dips affect it less. Just saying.

  6. Am confused a little bit on the vacuum pump as you want to pull vacuum on the area down low toward the oil pan part of the block (I.E. to evac the pan area, as opposed to the valve cover areas…like high on that plate you bolted up to the mechanical fuel pump location), then just cap those valve cover breather fittings but allow some upper air in by drilling very small metering holes in the caps, to gain vacuum in the lower side of valley to the upper side of the pan in crank area, which will also help to suck all that oil back through your valley drain back holes, and a side benefit of vacuum evac. Of the lower block area and pan, is that it helps suck the piston rings against the cylinder walls too, gaining additional HP, wich is why Pro Stock cars use them.

    The way it sounded in the explain of your plan was attaching or plumbing it to a valve cover which will work bigtime against the oil flowing back at all and defeat gravity. Maybe I was just not understanding the plan completely?

  7. If I had my 57 belair project sold and hadn't had the flu for 2 weeks I'd be on my way with cash for Brian's car. I got a motor and trans that is right what I need to put something together quick. You all are a great bunch oh guys. Maybe that car will hang around a little while and I'll get my Chance!

  8. instead of a impact which is hard on the gears and bushing, I use a 90-degree 14.4-volt rachet works great for me but you obviously have a ton of drawbar weight Cheers

  9. John.
    You never park your trailer indoors so buy a solar panel from Harbor Freight to keep charge on the battery for the trailer jack. Also if you can find a good Trojan 12V battery that will work better than most deep cycling batteries.

  10. I leave my trailer plugged in to 110 while at the house, and its on generator while at the track. So I mounted a battery tender that keeps my 12v battery topped off. And I put some LED strip lights inside the trailer, so when not on 110v I still have really good light in the trailer. I also mounted a cig outlet and USB's on the wall for charging cell phones etc while at the track.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

© 2024 Grudge Races - GrudgeRaces.Com - WordPress Theme by WPEnjoy