I Drove 1000 Project Cars: Here Were the Worst Mistakes



A portion of this video is sponsored by Continental Tire. Visit www.continentaltire.com/warranty

Restrictions and limitations apply. See complete
coverage details at continentaltire.com/warranty

Project cars are a great way to open the door to new experiences, opportunities, and car culture. However out of all the years of driving them I’ve noticed many people actually make their life a lot harder in the long run when it comes to choosing what to do to their project cars first and foremost. Today we go through my top 5 list of how to build the best project car possible whether you are on a budget or the sky is the limit. So what are the worst project car mistakes?
#ContinentalTires #TheSmartChoiceInTires #project #cars #thatdudeinblue #nissan #ford #honda #carculture

➥GET DISCOUNTED CAR PARTS USING THE CODE DUDEINBLUE:
➥ Subscribe for more:
➥ Consider my detail-product brand:
➥ MERCH:
➥ INSTAGRAM:
➥ TWITTER:
➥TWITCH:
➥ SECOND channel:
➥ Private TDIB Discord:

source

21 Comments

  1. I'm watching this out of curiosity, because I'm wanting to get more into cars. I'll hopefully be buying my first car soon. I'm not gonna worry about upgrading my first car too much. But in the future, it would be a nice hobby to get into, and a hobby I'd like to get into.

  2. Great vid. All of this is for sure correct. I would also say buy a car with more HP to start. I just bought a 2010 Panamera turbo it’s stick with 500hp and has over boost to 550. I’m not going to tune it. Also has carbon brakes so good in that. Cheers boys.

  3. I never understand how people buy new set of $1000 rims on a project car they just got when it literally needs mechanical service first like oil change/timing belt change.

  4. I way you are right to me, new bushing, suspension, brake, tyre´s makes huge different´s. I mean better tyre´s, new shocks like little better in euro cars Koni, Bilstein etc, then bushings poly or oem, new brakes oem or little upgrade make the driving better, then coils, steering wheels, seats..

  5. To be honest, I'm a little salty I didn't know these things or have this video come out years ago. It would have been life changing and I think I would have listened side David does know so much my last project car ruin my family's life for a few years. Now I'm not allowed to have more than exhaust upgrades

  6. Me and my friend were just talking about this, I emphasize doing things in order.

    You can do small engine mods like intakes, ported manifolds, exhaust, and even a tune but before you do something like a turbo, nitrous, or a supercharger. You need to do everything else FIRST.

    All the power in the world is useless without good tires. First thing I did when I got my G37 was tires. The old tires were super low on tread and stock power was enough to make the rear get squirrely in a bad way. I used to work at a firestone, saved a ton on some new firehawk v2s. Not the best tires in the world, but I have to say, they are definitely an improvement on the old firehawk design and I can say because I've installed so many sets of firehawks when I worked there. The old ones were trash, these are actually decent. Not as good as the Potenzas I'm putting on this summer, but definitely good.

    Second thing I did, start addressing the suspension. I noticed it had a pull to the right. Common on G37s and G35s is the front subframe crossmember tends to rust out in a really bad way, and the lower control arms bolt to that. Mine was nearly rusted through entirely. A bad pothole would do it. In newer cars, like the Q50 and the 2013 and up G37 they had a revised design that instead of a metalframe, the crossmember was a thick plate of metal. Less likely to rust through entirely. Indeed, the one I picked off a wrecked G37, had over 130,000 miles and it was from Chicago. Had barely any rust. Can't say the same for those bolts, but luckily my car had decent bolts to reuse.

    After that, it snowed a ton, took it in for both lower control arms in the front and an alignment. Difference was night and day.

    I'm currently debating buying cold air intakes or just building my own using silicone piping and cone air filters.

    Plans for the summer are, have Cold air intakes, new wheels, potenzas, and an akebono brake kit.

    Once that's done, it's time for tuning

  7. I went from cheap nankang tires to proper hankook tires and the difference in handling was night and day, but there's more to it than that – the car rides more comfortably on higher quality tires, there's less noise, which, sure in a project car doesn't matter much. but it does in a daily where you don't want a headache after commuting an hour to work

  8. I have always used the red light test….if you are in your car, and another pulls up next to you at a redlight….Do you say "I wish I had that car" or "that car is cool, but I like mine better".

  9. I have many project cars as well, however nothing feels like a 235000 mile Ford Ranger with 110hp and every ball-joint loose and filled with rust. As exciting as my 800hp Corvette. Especially over pot holes

  10. Order of operations

    Stage 0: fully functional car with no mechanical issues and only minor exterior flaws.

    Stage 1: wheels, tires, suspension, exhaust, and minor cosmetics (tint, shift knob, etc.)

    Stage 2: short throw, some body modifications, aftermarket lights, small interior changes (floor mats, shift boots, stereo, etc)

    most cars should stop at stage 2. you’ll likely over do it.

    enthusiast level

    Stage 3: everything needed for a ethanol tune. quality bucket seat and wheel. harness and harness bar (installed the right way)

    Stage 4: rare body parts, paint, wheels again, quality of life modifications

    stage 5: big power, big money. upgraded parts underneath (brakes, chassis stiffeners, adjustable arms)

    stage 6: rare interior and bay parts

    stage 7 (optional): underglow. Do not complete this step until the last 6 are fulfilled. stop putting this on your stock Corolla with heart stickers and rattle can wheels…

    stage 8: your child’s college tuition

    stage 9: convince your wife that the new car you just brought home is an “investment”

    stage 10: buy back that car you wish you never sold

    stage 11: put stock seats back because you’re old

  11. I dont lower a car unless i have a good wheel tire combo to finish the look and handling. You can never go wrong with Tien coilovers and nitto neogen tires. One of the best dd setups ive ever had.

  12. I think it makes a lot of sense. I have a E46 M3 ZCP and a NB1 Miata. Both on good suspension, new or aftermarket bushings, good tires with wider wheels on the Miata, some restoration inside and out, and a few "smile mods" like aftermarket exhausts. I am never wanting more power out of them. I would love to add a 996 GT3 to the collection but I don't want to make my house-savings money disappear.

  13. I always start with basic cosmetic, like blacking out chrome etc, then it’s wheels tires, suspension, more extensive body like wings and numbers THEN power. Honestly the performance K&N filter in the OEM air box made a big difference in my daily, gave me a better intake sound and helped the low end bog on a CVT, all for $60, the big thing is I always look at my car from inside and makes me happy to drive. It’s 160hp and will only get 200, but the fun I have on curvy roads makes it so great and enjoyable. Horsepower is NOT worth it if you only got one car lol

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

© 2024 Grudge Races - GrudgeRaces.Com - WordPress Theme by WPEnjoy