This is the second in series of videos about Camshafts. In this video I respond to your questions and comments from Camshafts 101 and take the subject to the next level
source
This is the second in series of videos about Camshafts. In this video I respond to your questions and comments from Camshafts 101 and take the subject to the next level
source
The only other thing is a woman. Lol
What is more complicated than a camshaft is a camshaft and a turbo. That doubles down on the difficult
On steel billet roller cams you can use composite, bronze or the one you said… One thing that is important is installing the dist. at the proper depth in the engine. Because if it is too deep it will try to drive the gears in the oil pump out the bottom. If it is too shallow it can ruin a bronze gear because it is not engage into the cam gear properly causing sharp impressions on the dist. gear. The oil pump drive shaft in a big block is 1/8" longer than a small block… If you happen to put the big block oil pump shaft you are asking for trouble! No matter how tight you make the dist. hold down the dist. will turn under rpm, making timing off… Plus it will be trying to push the oil pump gears out of the bottom of the pump with excessive wear…
Very Educational !
I weld a small 1/16" thick plate in the stock type timing cover for the thrust button. The Cloyes like you showed are the best if you can afford one. I run a belt drive where I can change the lobe centers at different degrees to find out where it makes the most torque and HP. It makes it easy by losing 4 nuts and moving the cam gear out in the open, no cover to remove. Dry belt system, but it is at a cost and there is other advantages by using a belt drive for the camshaft.
Point of the day is great.
The surface contact area of a flat tappet lifter is +/- 7/8"
The surface contact area of a roller lifter is +/- 1/16"
Trying to compare lobe ramp rates is apples to oranges
You are teaching me a ton, can't wait for part 103 I'm holding off on cam, converter, and gears for my c10s 355 rebuild until I hear you out on it! also good tip of the day!
Will you be getting into valve events later?
I don’t think anything made today is of the quality of days past, and not just engine parts.
Great info, thank you sir
Im new to your channel. Ive been quite impressed so far!
Have you ever broke a cam in that has dual springs with just the outer spring in to lighten up pressure during break in? I heard that would help prevent lifter and cam loab failure.
Great video!
I just got some tapered or conical springs. Do you have any experience with them and how they compare to beheive springs? They are supposed to control a wide range of resonance frequencies over a behive with requiring less spring pressure for the same job. Theres really nothing out there that lets you know how to properly select spring rates for them or comparing to similar capacity cylindrical springs.
So much awesome information
I tried Rhoads lifters once, for about a week 'til they drove me up a wall!
Remember those?
Hah, looks like the video thumbnail was foe 201, but the content was aggreeably 102. Lookin forward to 201.