If I have a cam that calls for a comp 986 spring and I already have comp 987 springs already in the heads, is it too much or should I save up for the right beehive springs and hardware?
I like your new small things approach. The Pac springs are equal diameter the entire spring. The behive.. reduce weight above the center. Most of your spring vibration happens in the middle coils. Connicle springs have taken massive steps in performance. I've noticed that any 8mm or smaller valve stem will stretch under high pressure. The ferra valves have way more meat to them. The starter pushes up against that mount. The pulling property is on the inside bolt! I like those 13 heads. Better I'd they would be spread ports! Sheet metal intakes for $5000? Yikes. I make them for much less, I guess I need to raise my prices. That single 4150 tunnel ram is deceiving!!!! Much like the wiend…tunnel ram with a single carb top. They don't work as you would think. The plenum area does not create a good signal transition to the carb. The sonic pulses bounce off the top plate! It happens with all intakes that have a roof over the ports. That 4500 intake will actually create more power everywhere.
30 years ago I got cheap a 400 509 block that fell off a tailgate & I welded the fuel pump boss back on with mig ran couple years in super stock dirt Laguna
Right on! Hey I welded a v10 triton block last year that had a big chunk missing behind the ac compressor and timing chain cover from crash damage. Roughly a 1×3" rectangle, I just mig welded a piece of angle iron cut to fit so the timing cover gasket had a nice flat area to seal, a little grinding and sealant where the repair was and she's been solid with no leaks. Oh and I had to recreate the bosses for the ac compressor because they broke off with the chunk. I always weld cast iron when there is nothing to lose and most of the time it works.
OK…I agree no China valves….Now what about the KAR made in India valves that AFR ships with their heads for over $2,000/pair?….I called out AFR and Tony Mamo many years ago on Speed Talk forum about the CRAP they put in their 195 CnC "Race Spec" heads….There's only a few brands of valves I will use in a solid roller motor for long term reliability….and I'm not going to gamble on cheap foreign made valves…Sometimes not even Argentinian ones….MANLEY, Del West Xceldyne….those are "no-brainers"
Hey great video as always… you might want to think about putting the content in the title so when people are searching they will find your content, just a thought.
I can certainly imagine Chinese valves doing that with mechanical roller valve springs. I have seen that also on a few 460 Ford engines with stock valve gear. Yes valve hardware can make or break an other otherwise good build.
I love how you take a head a lot of people would be impressed with and make it flow better by hand! I make crap heads flow better but it’s art when you’re improving on bigger $ performance parts
For welding Cast iron you have to preheat it almost red hot in the area that you're going to weld making sure the arrounding area stays pretty hot as well other why's it will "pull Away" everytime you lay a bead. There is a Myth soe guys will claim "You cannot weld cast iron" which is BS I have welded it many times. When I worked at Racers Edge I ported a ton of tunnel ram inake manifolds like that! Mainly just knocked down any casting flash then pink stoned them finished with a 80 grit sand paper flappers.
No clickbait here, definitely got exactly what the description promised. How to weld cast iron? de-grease, heat, de-grease again, more heat and stick. Let cool down slowly and maybe give some love taps on fresh welds to relief tensions. Those chinese valves were amazing, although fairly common. That size dish needs some black magic metallurgy to stay in shape at all, let alone hold a solid dual spring.
Ls3 head at the start of video is another perfect example of mismatched components, and yet another who Does Not know what they're doing. Then when the cheap shit fails, all the egg spurts rubbish the cheap Chinese parts and completely disregard the real cause of the problem. With that much spring pressure I'm surprised all of the valves didn't pull the heads off.
Welding cast iron like engine blocks…usually only 2 types of SMAW 'stick' rod..55% and 99% nickel…the 99% is somewhat the machinable, the 55% is going to be harder than your drills and taps… Welding with a MIG gun…you'd only get carbon steel out of them, lucky if it even works…and welds might be very hard to machine… The 99% nickel will often leave the weld with a pretty rough appearance, they don't run very smoothly when you use them.
Good stuff Eric. Speaking on cost for those Brodix 13's and having to go with custom built headers vs off the shelf headers. Most of the time a decent stainless off the shelf header will run $1000-1600. For the 582 you ported my heads and intake for, I looked at Lemon's SS headers and they were around $3800. I refuse to use their MS headers, especially at around $2500. My builder has quoted me $3500 for custom built stainless headers. Still very expensive, but I've seen tons of his work and the stuff his shop puts out is top notch. He's honestly not someone you go to if you're looking to do a budget build. Cool thing is that he's basically a one stop shop for the doing the whole car.
Valve stretch happens quite often with stock heads. No excessive spring rate required. What is required for it to take place is valve seat eccentricity from the valve guide centerline. Whether it be a worn out valve guide not removing enough heat out of the stem effectively or a heat treat issue allowing the seat and guide to move. It is a very good idea to use a straight edge across the tips of the valves, however this is not always possible. LT4 valves are not parallel and then there are many cylinder heads with the valve cover rail in the way. Most frustrating is the OHC versions with various designs that simply do not allow the use of a straight edge. A stem height indicator is a must. It is wise to at least pull the valves out of the head and compare the overall lengths to one another. Both keeper grove to valve head and a general overall length measurement. This happens frequently with stock heads across the board.
Eric has been a really straightforward guy! I am glad to have the opportunity to learn a lot and order some heads from him! Now I'm pondering a $2400 intake! I wish everybody did business the way he does. Straightforward, honest, and helpful.
You were talking about putting the pistons in the wrong hole for the valve reliefs. That is crazy. I remember when molly rings came out. I just took apart a motor, the molly rings were in the second groove. I've seen it a dozen times .like the valve slots, you just scratch your head and wonder.
i used to weld cast blocks all the time thats all i ran in my race car free to $25 max for a 350 4 bolt main that i can either sleeve the crack away or weld it, to weld cast you use a torch and arc welder to do a good job you really need two people you gotta keep it above 500F while welding or hotter if its say a crack into a water jacket
If I have a cam that calls for a comp 986 spring and I already have comp 987 springs already in the heads, is it too much or should I save up for the right beehive springs and hardware?
I like your new small things approach. The Pac springs are equal diameter the entire spring. The behive.. reduce weight above the center. Most of your spring vibration happens in the middle coils. Connicle springs have taken massive steps in performance. I've noticed that any 8mm or smaller valve stem will stretch under high pressure. The ferra valves have way more meat to them.
The starter pushes up against that mount. The pulling property is on the inside bolt!
I like those 13 heads. Better I'd they would be spread ports!
Sheet metal intakes for $5000? Yikes. I make them for much less, I guess I need to raise my prices. That single 4150 tunnel ram is deceiving!!!! Much like the wiend…tunnel ram with a single carb top. They don't work as you would think. The plenum area does not create a good signal transition to the carb. The sonic pulses bounce off the top plate! It happens with all intakes that have a roof over the ports. That 4500 intake will actually create more power everywhere.
Love the format. As always great video!
What are your thoughts on extrude honing? Would like to see a before and after flow test.
30 years ago I got cheap a 400 509 block that fell off a tailgate & I welded the fuel pump boss back on with mig ran couple years in super stock dirt Laguna
Also I enjoy the variety of this video
Unlike the single plane, the M&M tunnel ram also has room for ALL the nitrous nozzles…
Right on! Hey I welded a v10 triton block last year that had a big chunk missing behind the ac compressor and timing chain cover from crash damage. Roughly a 1×3" rectangle, I just mig welded a piece of angle iron cut to fit so the timing cover gasket had a nice flat area to seal, a little grinding and sealant where the repair was and she's been solid with no leaks. Oh and I had to recreate the bosses for the ac compressor because they broke off with the chunk. I always weld cast iron when there is nothing to lose and most of the time it works.
Always love your content Eric!
OK…I agree no China valves….Now what about the KAR made in India valves that AFR ships with their heads for over $2,000/pair?….I called out AFR and Tony Mamo many years ago on Speed Talk forum about the CRAP they put in their 195 CnC "Race Spec" heads….There's only a few brands of valves I will use in a solid roller motor for long term reliability….and I'm not going to gamble on cheap foreign made valves…Sometimes not even Argentinian ones….MANLEY, Del West Xceldyne….those are "no-brainers"
Hey great video as always… you might want to think about putting the content in the title so when people are searching they will find your content, just a thought.
I can certainly imagine Chinese valves doing that with mechanical roller valve springs. I have seen that also on a few 460 Ford engines with stock valve gear. Yes valve hardware can make or break an other otherwise good build.
I love how you take a head a lot of people would be impressed with and make it flow better by hand! I make crap heads flow better but it’s art when you’re improving on bigger $ performance parts
For welding Cast iron you have to preheat it almost red hot in the area that you're going to weld making sure the arrounding area stays pretty hot as well other why's it will "pull Away" everytime you lay a bead. There is a Myth soe guys will claim "You cannot weld cast iron" which is BS I have welded it many times. When I worked at Racers Edge I ported a ton of tunnel ram inake manifolds like that! Mainly just knocked down any casting flash then pink stoned them finished with a 80 grit sand paper flappers.
No clickbait here, definitely got exactly what the description promised. How to weld cast iron? de-grease, heat, de-grease again, more heat and stick. Let cool down slowly and maybe give some love taps on fresh welds to relief tensions. Those chinese valves were amazing, although fairly common. That size dish needs some black magic metallurgy to stay in shape at all, let alone hold a solid dual spring.
How heavy is that tunnel ram?
Stupids will be Stupids.
Ls3 head at the start of video is another perfect example of mismatched components, and yet another who Does Not know what they're doing. Then when the cheap shit fails, all the egg spurts rubbish the cheap Chinese parts and completely disregard the real cause of the problem. With that much spring pressure I'm surprised all of the valves didn't pull the heads off.
Stupids will be Stupds.
That manifold looks great, thanks for the video, all the best to you and your loved ones
consider me clickbaited
Welding cast iron like engine blocks…usually only 2 types of SMAW 'stick' rod..55% and 99% nickel…the 99% is somewhat the machinable, the 55% is going to be harder than your drills and taps…
Welding with a MIG gun…you'd only get carbon steel out of them, lucky if it even works…and welds might be very hard to machine…
The 99% nickel will often leave the weld with a pretty rough appearance, they don't run very smoothly when you use them.
I always buy my heads bare and source the valvetrain parts from reputable quality manufacturers.
There's just too much to lose by dropping a valve.
Good stuff Eric. Speaking on cost for those Brodix 13's and having to go with custom built headers vs off the shelf headers. Most of the time a decent stainless off the shelf header will run $1000-1600. For the 582 you ported my heads and intake for, I looked at Lemon's SS headers and they were around $3800. I refuse to use their MS headers, especially at around $2500. My builder has quoted me $3500 for custom built stainless headers. Still very expensive, but I've seen tons of his work and the stuff his shop puts out is top notch. He's honestly not someone you go to if you're looking to do a budget build. Cool thing is that he's basically a one stop shop for the doing the whole car.
Valve stretch happens quite often with stock heads. No excessive spring rate required.
What is required for it to take place is valve seat eccentricity from the valve guide centerline.
Whether it be a worn out valve guide not removing enough heat out of the stem effectively or a heat treat issue allowing the seat and guide to move.
It is a very good idea to use a straight edge across the tips of the valves, however this is not always possible.
LT4 valves are not parallel and then there are many cylinder heads with the valve cover rail in the way.
Most frustrating is the OHC versions with various designs that simply do not allow the use of a straight edge. A stem height indicator is a must.
It is wise to at least pull the valves out of the head and compare the overall lengths to one another.
Both keeper grove to valve head and a general overall length measurement.
This happens frequently with stock heads across the board.
Welding cast iron you need to pre heat before Welding and gradually cool it down after at least that's what has worked for me
What do you think about Trick Flow r series intake for sbc?
Good sir respectfully asking you do you ever work on any oldsmobile V8 cylinder heads 1964-1990 big block- small block oldsmobiles
What is a good set of BBC heads Out of the box? You do a lot of SBC heads but not many bbc.
Eric has been a really straightforward guy! I am glad to have the opportunity to learn a lot and order some heads from him! Now I'm pondering a $2400 intake! I wish everybody did business the way he does. Straightforward, honest, and helpful.
You were talking about putting the pistons in the wrong hole for the valve reliefs. That is crazy. I remember when molly rings came out. I just took apart a motor, the molly rings were in the second groove. I've seen it a dozen times
.like the valve slots, you just scratch your head and wonder.
Nickel spray weld works great, I use it all the time for fixing cast.
i used to weld cast blocks all the time thats all i ran in my race car free to $25 max for a 350 4 bolt main that i can either sleeve the crack away or weld it, to weld cast you use a torch and arc welder to do a good job you really need two people you gotta keep it above 500F while welding or hotter if its say a crack into a water jacket
Stevie Wonder could see that, "somethings off" from space.