Getting the power out of the leaning tower in our Plan Z Dart is proving to be a bit of a challenge.
We’ve been working out the bugs one by one and have been making progress, but still the engine is producing far less power than it should on paper.
Could it be that we’ve been overlooking one of these engines unique design features and actually slowing ourselves down by applying V8 logic to a situation where it doesn’t apply?
Here’s what we’ve found and how we plan on drastically reducing the cars 60 foot numbers.
MERCHANDISE:
Get Your UTG T-Shirts Here:
Get Your UTG Stickers Here:
OUR STORE:
*SOCIAL MEDIA:
Facebook:
source
Uncle Tony’s theory makes a lot of sense. That intake manifold was designed to have the stock exhaust manifold bolted to it to help heat it.
Deff needs Megaphone Funnels on exhaust Tips……Tremendous increase on Low end Torque curve !!
Needs Radiator hose "Ram Chargers" tunnel Ram intake !!
Four bangers often use coolant to warm up the intake. You could take an oil cooler, the type that uses coolant and goes between the block and filter. Make a bracket to hold it up against the underside of the intake using the bolts you were pointing out. Then run hoses from the heater connections on the engine to the cooler.
Those coolers are usually cheap at swap meets.
Since getting plenty of fuel for the slant way easier than plenty of air perhaps heating the fuel would cure the problem with out losing power?
tony…you're dealing with an atomization problem exacerbated by the runner length differences. under the carb use a spacer with a piece of medium mesh screen (stainless preferred) between the manifold and the bottom of the spacer plate.
just an old school fix to a period problem.
If you used a carb that was sized correctly then you would get better booster signal and have the fuel atomised better.
Adding heat into an intake manifold is never a performance gain unless it’s a bandaid solution like your doing now.
Put a 450 mechanical secondary carb on it, tune it correctly and enjoy going faster instead of chasing these issues that could be solved by a smaller carb.
I would never have guessed that. And my first thought (like everyone else's) was a heat sink (or 4) from the headers to the bottom of the intake. I can't wait to see it come alive.
There's a Banana in the Tailpipe !! ……Why is UT overlooking the Obvious ??
The Holley carb is installed Wrong…..Needs to be Twisted 90° Primaries on Outside ! …..Fuel distribution all Mess up like it is…….
DV just did a video about why velocity stacks can suck. Could be something to that in your application.
Way back the factory had 4bbl setup, how did they run?
You could wrap the manifold to retain some of the heat Keep the old school aesthetics, Great video not click bait at all.
paint under intake flat black
3 x twin choke downdraft Weber's, no need for heat, vaporize properly and tune across the rev range. And were used on hopped up beetle engines so may be available cheap?
Tony, if keeping the fuel warmer seems to be the problem, what then, is the purpose of a "cool can?" Jw
Could you just heat the intake with a propane torch before the first run?(or all of ‘‘em in the event of a long time between rounds) or even heat tape maybe
Monday morning quarterbacking here: Massaged engine, big carb, tubular exhaust manifold, restrictive economy oriented stock intake manifold. One more hot rodded component yet to be optimized here. I'm thinking that intake manifold is holding you back. Suggestion: How about a wideband air/fuel ratio sensor in the exhaust connected to a graphing scan tool? Might tell you how to get the mixture right where you want it quickly.
Just wondering if the wedge engines with the crossram intakes have similar issues? If so how do they deal with it?